Monday, May 5, 2014

Umana Restaurant and Wine Bar, a meeting place for the people

Dale Davidson didn't intend to be a restauranteur. Her goal was simply to showcase her experiences, "of traveling, food, art, and culture," she says. 

The result is Umana Restaurant and Wine Bar, a new restaurant on the southern edge of Townsend Park. 

Born in Guyana, Davidson has spent her life traveling the world, collecting artifacts--and stories. Her restaurant is the product of those travels. "I wanted to create a space where people could connect, in more ways than one," Davidson says. 

Umana is named for a benab, or conical thatched hut in Guyana, where ministers of non-aligned countries, including Egypt, Ghana, India, and Yugoslavia, met in 1972 to discuss their action plan for economic development. Umana Yana is a tribal phrase meaning "meeting place of the people."  

The restaurant is especially inspired by Davidson's trips through South America, the Caribbean, and Africa, and of course, her homeland, and the restaurant's menu boasts dishes every bit as colorful and lush as these transports would indicate.

Head chef Mike Troidle's dishes are based in part on street food--but then elevated. Critics have praised his grilled jerk lamb lollipops, corn fritters, codfish samosas, not to mention, the restaurant's exciting wine and bar selection, which includes a popular flight of South African wines. Troidle also offers vegan options and gluten free options, and this approach has translated into good traffic. Sunday brunch is always packed, Davidson says, and her dinners are picking up.

The restaurant's decor is warm and lively, with heaven handcrafted wooden tables, chairs handwoven in a mountain town in Haiti, and lighting fixtures crafted from recycled oil drums. The walls are painted with enormous colorful murals. And even the smallest touches, like the palm baskets the checks are delivered in, bespeak of Davidson's careful eye for detail. 

Davidson notes the exciting signs of renewal on the same block as Umana. This stretch that used to be known for loitering and trash is undergoing a turnaround, with three new restaurants going in this year, Umana, Flavors of India, and Terra, and the construction of 14 new condos just nearing completion. This park-front block will be a destination for residents and visitors alike. "We're very excited about it," says Davidson. "Terra is next door and we think there will be a very symbiotic relationship with them." 

Hardeep Singh, who handled the launch of Flavors of India, echoed these sentiments earlier this year, explaining that he and the other restaurants have already established a collegial atmosphere, which includes chatting about menus and culinary challenges.

Ultimately, they would all like to obtain a cafe permit to have outdoor seating, but will hold off for now. "We'll wait and see how it goes for Howard [Terra's CEO]," Davidson says. "For now, we keep it simple." 

Umana is located at 236 Washington Avenue across the street from Townsend Park. The restaurant is open for dinner 5:30pm-10:30pm Tuesday through Saturday, and Sunday Brunch. For more information, contact the restaurant at (518) 915-1699.